Work in progress still…Will add pics as I finish this up over the next week.
Firstly, I take no responsibility if you screw something up. Use this guide at your own risk. Its pretty fiddly but if you are patient enough you should be able to get through without breaking..much..
Since so many guides online regarding Reverse Camera installations are for the W204 Sedan (Which only half applies to the Wagon or Estate) I’ve decided to make the internet’s life easier and post my own estate-based guide. Hopefully this will assist you if you’re looking to retrofit a reverse camera or even change your license plate globes on your MB Wagon.
I carried this out on my C63 Estate but it should be similar for other W204/S204 estates as well.
Right Angle Fakra to RCA cable
Plastic trim removal tools
W204 License plate light camera or alternatively you can this tailgate handle camera. (This guide focuses on the license plate camera though)
2.4ghz Wireless reverse camera kit
Kobalt 24pc Right Angle Torx kit – This one I found on Amazon lets you get on a 90 degree angle – I wish I had this….
A few words before starting.
The wagon/tailgate is a pain to get a cable into. You would need to run something via the rubber boots that connect between the body of the car and tailgate. This is the reason I have chosen to use the wireless sender kit. Unlike the sedan – There is no easy way to route a cable into the tailgate.
The tailgate trim is a pain in the ass to remove. You need to be pretty forceful to get the thing off. Also the fact that you HAVE to take all this off to change a license plate bulb is nuts.
There are two screws holding in the rear license plate trim on the outside. They are an absolute shit to access, unless you have a right angle torx kit I linked above. Even then you’d still probably need to undo the wiper motor bolts.
Tailgate trim removal
- Pull off the handle trim covers. They will reveal 2 torx screws on each side. Unscrew these and remove the plastic trim that was being held in. Set aside.
- The whole rear plastic is now held in by metal clips and plastic guides. The outer edges are easier to pry down first. Carefully using a trim tool pry the outside edges out. They will come out diagonally from the tailgate.
- The next two clips are on each side of the catch mechanism. These were REALLY tight to come out. The clips actually popped out of the trim piece as opposed to the clip popping out of the tailgate. This was the most annoying part to remove. Be careful as there are plastic guides – so as you pull – you need to come outwards away from the tailgate.
- Disconnect the 3 wiring harnesses – 2 from each side light and one from the automatic tailgate close button (if you have it)
- Next to come off is the carpeted trim piece in the center of the tailgate. These are held on only by orange trim clips. Use your trim tool to get in to each of the ones closest to the locking mechanism and slowly pry them out. Once you get the outer edge, there are another 5 clips holding the panel in the middle. You should have enough leverage to carefully pop the remaining out as you pull the piece down. There are 4 metal clips that should pop out as well near the glass edge.
License plate trim removal (Outside)
- Remove 2x torx screws next to license plate lights.
Undo 3x 10mm bolts holding in rear wiper motor. Once undone you can swing the motor out of the way (It will still be attached to the arm on the outside – Be careful not to swing it into the paintwork and scratch it)
Undo the 2x torx screws just behind the motor next to the tailgate release mechanism.
On the outside of the tailgate, use a pry tool to pop off the 4x plastic clips, be careful when sliding it out as there will be a small clip holding the left side in (where the factory camera position is) – You need to release this from the inside and then license plate trim should come off.
- Use pry tool and pop out center airvents. You should be able to get it from the sides. Once one side is out, the other should pop. Unclip 3x wire harnesses for popup screen control, hazards, etc.
Unscrew 2x Torx screws on each top side of the headunit. There will be little plastic tabs (The screws held them down) that you can now pull upwards.
- Put a cloth or something on your gearstick and then pull out the unit. It comes diagonally upward and then out (there are guides to make sure it comes out the right way, just feel and follow). Rest the unit on the gear stick/dash.
- If you have Video Aux (Via MDI Cable in the globebox) there will already be a FAKRA cable plugged into the port you need. I just unplugged it and put it aside since I never use Video Aux.
- Attach your Right Angled FAKRA cable to the plug. See below as to why you need a right angle. It will hit that thicker plug behind it otherwise.
- Attach your Wireless transmitter to the other end of the FAKRA cable.
- Depending on your headunit – Find a 12v switched (Only on when car is on) power source and tap that for transmitter power.
Rear Camera Install/License Plate globe change
- Unclip license plate light (I used the right side) and remove.
- Push through light globe (I used an extra rubber O-ring as my globe didnt seat into to the camera holder snug) and install into camera.
- Insert camera/light and clip into place, with wires running back into inside of tailgate.
- Power up your Wireless sender – The wiper motor has 12v that is easy enough to tap into. Black = 12V, Brown = Ground. I just unplugged the connector and pushed the wires into the female pin connections, and pushed the connector back in. Use a Multimeter to check before hand if you aren’t sure. Tape up the wires and secure with a cable tie.
- Since the sender will pass on 12v to the camera as well, all that is needed now is to plug in the RCA Yellow plug and also the power plug.
Headunit Setup – Engineering mode
- Hold the Red Hangup, No.1 and Hash for 5 seconds.
- Go to HW Setting, HU Parameter and then go to Page 3 – Rearview Camera. Choose SRVC. Back out to the main menu and go to END to exit.
Navigating the engineering screen – You can only go to the next page if you rotate to the last line, then push the Comand knob DOWN. Same to go back a page, but push UP.
- IMPORTANT – Shut the car off, pull the key out. Wait a few mins.
- Turn car back on (Put it into ON) and the hold the brake and shift into Reverse (Make sure the handbrake is on) and you should see the screen switch to the Reverse Camera mode.
I originally bought a Canon 17-40mm f4L to use with my 5DmkII with the theory that it would be much lighter setup than lugging around my 24-70 f2.8L.
The problem was the Canon combo wasn’t that much lighter or compact… it would still be a pain. After looking around on some forums I came across a couple of months old 2nd hand Fujifilm X100S and decided to give it a shot. I sold off the 17-40 and haven’t regretted it yet!
Inspired by Mr Hobby @ Strobist I decided to gaffa (or gaffers) tape it up to give it a rough older more stealthy look. Gives some protection as well. In terms of protecting the front lens, I have two filters – one with the glass removed (this is required otherwise the lens will hit the glass while focusing) and the other on top of that. Saves me having to keep a lens cap on, though it does protrude a little. I also have a Filter Adapter Ring and Metal Lens Hood – this will let you use only filter – but it sticks out more so I don’t really use it.
With this setup, I can throw the camera around and not really worry. Gaffa tape protects the corners and the stacked filters protect the lens. It’s my home made Black Edition X100S lol.
I’ve been using this camera for a few months now, it came to Japan with me earlier in the year and performed flawlessly. It’s low light ability is excellent for its size, ISO 6400 is usable and its size/weight makes it super portable. So much so I touched my 5DMkII probably twice since I got it.
My strap of choice is the Domke 1-Inch Web Strap with Swivel – Awesome because the main strap is swivel clipped on & can be removed to make a smaller strap if required. Woven rubber in the main strap also keeps it in place when slung too. It also features little leather tabs on the rings to protect them from scrubbing/scratching the camera body.
SD card is an Eye-Fi Mobi 16GB – Integrated with the X100S which has an Eye-Fi Transfer on/off feature – This saves battery when you don’t want to transfer any images.
About this card…firstly, it’d be a good feature if it actually worked! The setting doesn’t do anything at this stage – Something I have brought up with Eye-Fi Support who tell me they are looking into it. I found a post on DPReview that showed a firmware update fixed it but they made no mention of this in my support replies. Stay Tuned.
In terms of Wifi transfer to an iPad or iPhone though, it works really well and is very easy to setup. You download an app, type in a code that you get with the card and it automatically will setup the Wifi Network on your phone – then off you go. As you take photos it will transfer to the phone when the App is active. Perfect. Unfortunately it doesn’t let you choose or browse what is on the card and selectively transfer images/videos – It will just send everything. (No RAW or vids over 2GB though)
If you’re interested in seeing more X100S photos – Check out my other X100S specific site – ex(100)es
People ask me a fair bit about going to Japan so I thought I’d whack all the information I know into a post – using my recent snowboarding trip to Hakuba as an example.
Please use these prices as a guide only! Can’t help if things change here and there.
Mobile Phone access
I got two data only SIM cards this year – one for myself and one for my wife. Makes it much easier to communicate if required (Coverage on the mountains is typically pretty good – go with a DoCoMo sim) – Had them delivered directly to my accomodation in Hakuba. They need about 2 days to get it there, so book it prior to leaving. Great for using Google Maps – Using this in Tokyo you can actually select the Public Transport option and it will route you on the Tokyo subway system. Very handy!
No need for voice/sms access as we just used iMessage/Facetime/Skype/etc.
Few things to note if you change SIM on an iPhone – Beware that your iMessage/Facetime account is sometimes activated via your Aussie mobile number. You can go into your “Settings” – “Messages” and change the “You can be Reached by iMessage at:” and “Start New Conversations from:” – I had my Gmail and iCloud accounts so I just selected these as well. The Japanese SIM is data only you cannot get any SMS verification etc – This also stopped me from using WhatsApp as I couldn’t register the phone…it detected a new mobile network, and no way to verify!
If you have roaming on your normal sim card and use a Pocket Wifi – You’d probably get around that problem.
4100yen for 1GB that lasts 30 days. (Sim card)
As of April 2014 there will be a direct flight from Melbourne – which will be awesome!
Don’t forget even though JetStar flights start cheap, they add up when you add all the crap onto them, especially if you are going to be lugging all your board gear up. All my boarding gear for a week inc my usual gadgets, came in at a touch under 20kg. If you take into account the booze and food consumed on the flight (and I went a bit nuts on the flight up) costs can add up – I spent about $100 on food and (mostly) grog.
If you can find a Qantas or Singapore Airlines flight (find a A380 flight, with a couple of hours stopover in Singapore – Arriving at Narita early morning) that would probably be preferred. Then you can spend the day looking around Tokyo and grab the Nagano Shinkansen to Hakuba.
$1300-1600 per person – Make sure you factor in extra weight you might need for your gear. Also don’t forget travel insurance – This year we had some huge snowfalls which closed roads and shutdown airports!
$800-$900 per person if you can find a Jetstar sale flying in the right months..
The past two trips I have jumped on the Hakubus – It connects with Jetstar flights and usually leaves around 830-9PM from Narita Terminal 2. It’s a long bus ride to Hakuba – around 5 hours (with 2 rest stops) – Can be a long day if you have spent the whole day flying already…
Next time I would look at getting into Tokyo earlier in the day and then jumping on a Shinkansen to Nagano and then connecting Bus to Hakuba.
Depending on which Shinkansen you get, it will take around 1:30-2hrs – The bus from Nagano to Hakuba is usually around an hour.
Nagano Snow Shuttle (Hakubus) – 9900yen per person
Nagano/Hakuba Bus – 1500yen per person (or 4500yen for 4 people)
Asama Nagano Shinkansen – 7700yen per person (add 3000yen if you want a reserved seat on a green car)
If you are staying in Hakuba – I recommend staying at Snowlines Lodge. Stephen and Sarasa are awesome hosts and provide great value accommodation in a very decent location. Happo-One is about 15 minutes if you want to walk, or walk 50m out the front door to their very own bus stop…then its only a 2 minute bus ride! There is a Lawson convenience store about 80m down the road, and Echoland is also just a short stroll up the road…Not to mention the liquor store that you have to pass with a massive selection of Sake – and spirits at prices that will shock any Australian…so cheap.
They have a cozy bar that opens at 4PM, excellent breakfasts and spacious rooms. Can’t wait to get back there soon!
500yen tap beers
1000yen bacon/eggs breakfasts
6500-10000yen per night depending on room.
free transfers to/from hakuba happo bus terminal
Nearly all resorts have a coupon/discount ticket that includes a 900yen lunch voucher. You can print these out or your accomodation will be able to give them to you. The Snownavi Website is probably the best one-stop place to get all the discount coupons for all the major Hakuba resorts. There is a whole load of useful info there as well.
5000yen per person – Happo-one lift ticket inc. 900yen lunch (with coupon)
12500yen per person – 3-day Hakuba Valley all resort pass
Hakuba Links/FB Pages/etc
Hakuba Tourism Website – Check out their Essentials Guide
Hakuba Happo 【Official English Page】 白馬八方尾根 – Happo-one FB Page – Has daily updates on conditions, etc
白馬岩岳 Hakuba Iwatake – In Japanese, but you can figure out the snow reports.
Japan-guide.com – There is a WEALTH of info on this website – Be sure to have a good look through!
I used this service last year and it saved me carrying my board bag on the bus/shinkansen/tokyo metro. Give 2-3 days and you can have your board bag delivered direct to the airport for when you depart. We had Snowlines arrange this for us and take care of everything, worked out really well.
This year because of the heavy snowfalls – the roads were closed. I had to get my bag into the bus cargo hold from Hakuba to Nagano (Which was PACKED! Lucky we even got on! – 5 of us) – Once we got to Nagano, it was a quick shuffle to get onto the Shinkansen (We only took up about 5 rows of overhead storage – no one really cared though!). On arrival to Tokyo – getting the board bags around the metro system was a pain in the arse. Hugging the bag, making sure not to whack anyone, going up and down stairs – really gives you a workout. Then getting it to the hotel, and then back to a storage the next day (So we didn’t have to lug it around all day) was just a big pain in the butt.
I stored my board bag at the JR East Baggage Services desk at Tokyo Station near the Maranuchi North entrance. For my smaller bags I just used the lockers right near that entrance within the station.
~2500yen – Takuhaibin/Ta-Q-Bin Courier Service – 165cm Dakine board bag loaded with about 15kg of gear.
300-400yen – Tokyo Station Lockers
500yen – JR East Baggage Services storage. They only operate from 730am to 830PM so not sure if they store overnight.
Tokyo Subway/Narita Express (NeX)
Use the machines! Don’t waste your time lining up at the ticket desks. They all have an “ENGLISH” button on them and you should be able to work out what you need.
To get around the Tokyo subway system – it can be a bit confusing as there are a few different companies – Tokyo Metro, JR East, Toei – I find it much easier to just buy an IC card – Suica or Pasmo – Much like Melbourne’s Myki (Just not slow and shit) – load it up and off you go without having to worry.
Most vending machines and some stores can use these cards too.
To get back to Narita from Tokyo Station – Use the Narita Express (NeX) – They leave leave pretty frequently from this station. Timetables linked below.
Pasmo – 1000 yen – 500yen deposit for card, 500yen for travelling. Top it up at the machines as required.
NeX Ticket – 2740yen per person (Low season is 200yen cheaper – JR East Fares & Charges page for more details)
This is pretty much up to personal preference. I like Happo-One which is the largest one in the Hakuba valley and have also been to Iwatake, Goryu/Hakuba47 (Which are connected at the top..2 for the price of 1) – however there is a huge range to choose from so go explore!
Here’s a list of what you have access to..The furthest out is Cortina which is about a 45 mins bus ride away..Which also apparently gets a bit more snowfall too.
Thats about all I can think about adding for the moment.. Hope you find this useful! Feel free to ask any questions in the comments below. If I think of anything else I will add it as I go.
Here’s some shots from my first VicDrift event. Lots of throwaways as I like the car in each shot to be sharp (most of the time anyway) and at slower shutter speeds it gets a bit spray and pray. A forgiving part of digital I guess. I’m not worried too much about framing each shot, I do try to place the subject in the general quarter of the frame that I’m wanting but typically I’ll just crop it the way I want after.
Full set is here, a few extra details on some images shown below.
Canon 5DmkII | Canon 400mm(ƒ/2.8) | ƒ/5 | ISO 50 | 1/125s
I’ve known Jarrod from JRM Photography for awhile now and he had his beast 400mm 2.8 II out there.
Canon 5DmkII | Canon 400mm(ƒ/2.8) | ƒ/10 | ISO 50 | 1/60s
Gave it a crack and I can see why its the mother of motorsport lenses. Would love to try this lens panning from a further distance. Super sharp shots!
Canon 5DmkII | Canon 24-70mm (ƒ/2.8) | ƒ/9 | ISO 50 | 1/60s
Threw on the 24-70 for a bit of a wider view and catch both cars in frame. Could have probably cropped it a bit better now that I look at it.
MelbS15 is a forum that I started for car enthusiasts, mostly owners of the Nissan 200SX/Silvia S15. A fellow member,
Manny Su – Had arranged with Tampered Motorsport to have a bunch of us go up there and battle it out on the track.
3:45AM – Alarm goes off… Yep must be another track day. Lucky I’m not driving this time around! I had the luxury of being a passenger in the back seat of an STi.
Stayed until the last session, didn’t leave till around 5pm which is pretty late. Was unfortunate to hear about all the Highway cops out on the way back pulling people over.
Top 10 S15 lap times:
1. evilsub – 1:37.767
2. PhoenixGSR – 1:37.8260
3. Sheng – 1:43.205
4. Bobi_t – 1:43.376
5. gmr – 1:44.844
6. phuongz – 1:47.430
7. projekt – 1:48.072
8. aussieBaller – 1:49.873
9. [S15GT] – 1:49.985
10. sabbadin – 1:50.106
All are available for purchase – Print or Digital files available. If you’re interested in buying a shot or two, drop me an email or hit me up via the Facebook page with the name of the image you’re interested in.
Took a bunch of photos throughout the day, and they speak louder than words..so let’s get onto it. One some of the shots I’ll write a little Behind The Scenes (BTS) blurb with a little bit on the why’s and how’s.
Winton veterans Vu (Gold/Black S15) and Manny (Cherry Red Chasers S15) battling it out.
BTS: 1/60 @ f9, ISO 125 – Since these two are always pushing each other, I was looking for some different angles to try and get a shot with both of them in it..esp when panning.
BTS: 1/640 @ f2.8, ISO 250 – Not panning this time, so upped shutter speed to try and catch some cool little details. In this shot, you can see the outside rear tyre sidewall flexing through the corner and the car’s lean throughout the corner.
Vu in his track beast with a very unique gold/black paint job. Passenger using the rollcage as jesus bar..
BTS: 1/125 @ f4, ISO 100 – Mixing up where you stand is important to try and get different angles. There were basically no one at this part of the track. Due to the location, didn’t need that slow a shutter speed so panning wise its actually quite fast.
Ian having a little run in with the dirt.
BTS: 1/40 @ f8, ISO 100 – Gotta make sure that finger is ready to up your shutter speed if you see an ‘incident’ – In this instance I decided to leave it super slow and see what I could grab of this car coming off and kicking dust/dirt up everywhere!